Breitling Hercules

[Oisac]

Movement: 18/20
Case,Crystal and Crown: 19/20
Dial and Hands: 19/20
Accuracy: 15/15
Strap, Buckle or Bracelet: 7/10
User Manual and Packaging: 5/5
Comfort: 3/5
Value: 8/10
Overall rating: 94/100

----------------------------------------------------------------
Movement:

The Hercules uses a modified ETA 2892/A2 movement with complications for small seconds, 24hr clock indicator and chronograph (but no date). The movement is nicely, if not sumptuously finished, with filled "Breitling" engraving on the rotor, and some swirl patterns on the rhodium flashed main plate. Of course, the ebauche is a 25.6mm diameter, so considerable packing is required for a good fit into the 37mm id case. This has been nicely engineered, with stainless fittings throughout. Much has been written about this movement, so suffice to say it's a known winner in terms of accuracy, durability, build quality etc. 2 points off for decorative finish- a bit harsh perhaps as no-one ever sees it (except the watchmaker and back removers like me). 18/20

---------------------------------------------------------------
Crystal, Case, Crown
Just fantastic. A flawless sapphire crystal, antireflective coated on both sides. Case is 44mm od diameter brushed stainless with heavy lugs which have been nicely machined and finished. The bracelet is screw-fitted, rather than spring-bar fitted to these lugs, partly due to the heavy weight of the watch. Crown is thick-stemmed but not screw-down, chromium plated with the Breitling B cast onto the end. Pushers are square cushion shaped, nice action, chrome plated. The bezel is bidirectional, flush with crystal, no ratchet (but is nicely damped and takes quite an effort to rotate- hence a point off). 19/20

---------------------------------------------------------------
Dial/Hands
Again, a superb finish to both. The dial is crisply printed with precise printing, and no mis-alignment anywhere. Hour markers are superluminova dotted. Hands are extremely legible and also superluminova finished. Resetting the chrono sometimes leaves the small elapsed minutes and hours fractionally misaligned, so a point off there. 19/20

---------------------------------------------------------------
Bracelet
This is one heavy watch (>250g), and has a correspondingly heavy ss brushed bracelet. Links are solid, rattle-free and blind-pinned, except for adjustment areas which are screw-pinned. The bracelet is a little prone to easy scratching, much more so seemingly than the watch case, but maybe it just gets more of a battering. The clasp is a little utilitarian, but does its job well. The safety overclasp leaves deep scratches though. 7/10

---------------------------------------------------------------
Accuracy
Without hyperbolae, the most accurate watch I have owned, quartz included. I'm sure this is an exceptionally lucky fluke, but after initial gain of precisely +9s/day (day in, day out), following regulation I'm now getting -1sec/3days, again very consistently. It may not last, but this is an exceptional acheivement for a mechanical watch. 15/15

---------------------------------------------------------------
Comfort
This is a heavy watch, and it's comfort is probably very subjective. I find it absolutely fine, no sharp edges to catch up on anything and I wear it 24/7. However, due to it's weight, it will not be comfortable to all comers. 3/5

---------------------------------------------------------------
Packaging/Manual
The usual excellent Breitling Bakelite box with chamois leather (or at least looks/smells like it) interior, leather cushion, faultless manual and COSC cert. 5/5

---------------------------------------------------------------
Value and overall rating
The perennial question- is a $250 ebauche, with factory modification, in a fantastic casing worth 2K UK pounds? I would say yes (but then I would, I bought one!), as you're getting a superbly engineered and finished timepiece with a bullet-proof movement. 8/10.
Overall, there is nothing I could suggest to improve this watch significantly- it's a pleasure to wear, look at and own. The fact that it seems staggeringly accurate is just a bonus- I'd be just as happy if it was +2 for one day and -4 the next.

Watch review by: IainC
Watch Brand: Breitling
Watch Model: Hercules
RRP: 2,200 UK pounds
Date Purchased: 12/2003
Date of Review: 21/1/2004